November 16, 2009

Chile [TAKE 2: Santiago, Vina, & Valpo]

After I said goodbye to the chileno surfeadores, I headed to the capital city, Santiago. I arrived with low expectations since everyone told me to expect smog and a city not nearly as cool as BA. But I'm really glad I checked it out for myself, because even though I only spent a couple days there, I really enjoyed the little city at the foot of the Andes.

I followed the itinerary given to me by my cousin Lauren, who used to live in Santiago... I went to the Museo de Bellas Artes but it was closed for a "paro" (which means a labor strike, but I had no idea so I waltzed right on into the museum while everyone looked at me like I was crazy to have not seen the hundreds of signs and protestors on the street. oops! at least I learned a new spanish word!).

Chileans are a very proud people, and after they were liberated from 17 years of military rule in 1990 they learned how to really take advantage of their rights. There are constantly strikes about one thing or another because they love to exercise their freedom of speech. Here is one group in the Plaza de Armas:

Catedral Metropolitana in the same plaza:

I walked up Cerro Santa Lucia, a little hill that used to be a cemetery and then a defensive military point, and is now open to explore and check out the view of the city.

(I warned you about the haze/smog... there are gorgeous snow capped mountains somewhere under there, I swear)

While wandering around streets full of cafes, shops, and plazas I ran into this pretty church:

Pablo Neruda's house was my last stop, and it was great learning about the famous Chilean poet and politician. I picked up one of his love poem collections to attempt reading my first spanish book!

Next I headed to the coast (again) to stay with my acquaintance-turned-new-amigo Ricardo. He and his family were so welcoming and were kind enough let me stay with them for a few days in Vina del Mar- a gorgeous beach town that totally reminds me of California! We drove up the coast in search of secret beaches (which of course are all built up now), ate incredible seafood (like Chilean sea bass, razor clam empanadas, and homemade ceviche), and drank ourselves silly with pisco (the national alcohol- super sweet but soo good).

View from Ricardo's place of Valparaiso during the day:
and at sundown:

We spent a day exploring the cerros of Valpo. This colorful town has funiculars that take you up and down the hills, with winding roads full of murals, cool graffiti, and bohemian character. Some of my favorite buildings and art:







We stopped to take in this gorgeous view and grab a beer:

Cemetery for Dissidents a.k.a. non-Catholics on the hill:

I absolutely loved my time in Chile! Although I could barely understand anyone when I first got there (their spanish is totally different from other Latin countries, esp Argentina), I got to know the place and its friendly people, and ultimately I wish I had more time to travel around the long skinny country bounded by ocean and mountains.

Crossing back into Argentina, the vineyards of Mendoza:

Chileans and Argentineans typically don't like each other for past political/cultural reasons... but I must admit I appreciate and treasure both countries. My vacation was great, but I am also excited to be back in Buenos Aires to start working, settle down, and continue living my 'vida loca' in Argentina!

2 comments:

  1. I saw the pics yesterday and am glad to have the words to go with them. Your descriptions make the pictures come alive. Love, Mom

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  2. Rachel: You continue to amaze. We're doing well, but it doesn't seem right to be starting to think about skiing without you! Can't wait to hear about your job. Love, Uncle Alan

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